I was shaking when I arrived at Earl’s on Saturday for my first shift. It had nothing to do with nerves of going back to the nutso life of a server on weekends. I’m pretty sure it was sympathy shakes concerning a Google email alert I received via Blackberry concerning an earthquake in Ulaanbaatar. There were no details, and no word on how bad it was. All that was on my mind was my friends and their shotty apartment buildings. As someone who covered the China earthquake at CBC Newsworld in 2008, I was well versed on how badly built structures can collapse like a house of cards.
Turns out the earthquake measured only 3-5 on the Richter scale, and that the hotbed of the quake was 10 km north of Delgertsogt soum, Dundgobi province with a magnitude of 5.1. There were no deaths or property loss (Montsame).
Before I knew all the details, I had quickly posted to my Facebook on the way into work, “Is everyone in Mongolia okay???”
So yes. Obviously it wasn’t a big deal, but my brain was thinking about disasters in China and the summertime flood that took place. Can you blame a girl?
Also of interest is this article on Amanda Lindhout, whom I’ve written about twice in this blog. She was recently released by her kidnappers in Somalia. The article is about the lack of preparedness and training available to freelance journalists and whether the risks that Lindhout (and many other journalists) take when going to war zones is worth the story.
So here’s my first appeal since I’ve landed back on Saskatchewan soil – if you hear anything down the line – anything at all – that may sound like it would be interesting to the general public, let me know! As a casual employee at CBC, I’m trying hard to get back into the city news again, and it’s proving difficult to get my footing. Know a 9-year-old that’s going door to door making a million on snow removal? Anyone going on a trip around the world to spread the religion of CFL football? Email me if you have any ideas. It would certainly save this lowly casual!
You’ll have to excuse me for the long, long delay, but as you had probably guessed (and experienced yourself), the holidays were filled with excess food and drink, and not nearly enough time with friends and family. I guess you’d probably appreciate to know that I’m back in Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada, working toward saving enough money to head off again to another corner of the world.
I was able to get the exit visa a day before departure from Ulaanbaatar (sound familiar?) and get on the plane with no problems, except some heavy bags! I’m so sad to say goodbye to my friends in Ulaanbaatar, but the prospect of coming home is a welcome reprieve from the last few months, which have seemed entirely dream-like upon reflection. I managed to miss my flight from Vancouver to Calgary because their computer systems across the airport were down and I only had an hour to clear customs and switch to WestJet, but they took really great care of me and had me on a flight just an hour later.
Landing was interesting…it’s been a while since I’d been in a room with an entirely English-speaking crowd, taken a breath of fresh Canadian air, and drove, among other things. It was so great to see everyone again, and if I haven’t already thanked you, just know that you keeping up with this blog and sending me your well wishes over the last half year has kept me going and working hard. Some days were difficult, as you already know, and it’s been a pleasure knowing there are people a world away that are such great support. Although I regret not spilling more on the blog, I don’t regret the act of blogging at all. It’s a reflective exercise for me, and hopefully an entertaining thing for you to read.
Now that I’m home, I’ll be beginning casual work at CBC in radio and television, and working at the restaurant for some extra cash. I’ve also met some wonderful connections at ARRIVA Magazine, and hope to help with them in any way I can (a piece I did on my experience in Mongolia will be in the Jan./Feb. edition of the publication).
I will continue to post to the blog on what’s going on, and will hopefully begin putting together my plans for my next trip. Let me know if you have any advice! My good friend Joana and I have already started throwing together the idea of visiting Pakistan…thoughts?
Despite the little scrapes and bruises everyone gets trying to live and love, 2009 was a wonderful year and I have no regrets on my travels or anything else. All my best wishes for you in 2010, and here’s to reflecting and moving forward!
I figured that’s as good a place as any to start wrapping things up on all things Ulaanbaatar. I really, really hope I won’t have to start video blog crying again in the next day before I leave. Looks like I need an exit visa. I’m well-educated on the Mongolian bureaucratic system at this point, so I’m feeling optimistic. Tomorrow I need to go back to the Labour Ministry, which I visited earlier today. I get a letter from them saying I no longer work in Mongolia and my employer is okay with that. From there, I go to the Immigration Office (which is now located by the airport – who knew?!) and flail my arms, pray to the visa gods and hope that I get the stamp in time. Such is life, my friends. Such is life.
I’m just tying up a few loose ends here, such as dropping off some Christmas presents to Ogy, Tugi and the kids, dropping by my seamstress to pick up a few dresses, and finishing the packing business. I had some people over on Friday night to say goodbye and celebrate my friend Mike’s birthday. Saturday we went to the Quiza hip-hop concert. He’s a Mongolian singer that does some pretty inspired music about social issues in the country. Went to my friend Benj’s for the after party and actually managed to get out to a club for a few hours for the first time since the curfew was lifted. Last night was quiet, as I was getting some last minute Oyu Tolgoi and SCREEN work finished.
I fly out to Beijing on Wednesday afternoon and spend a couple nights there before heading through to Vancouver and Calgary before getting home. Once there, I’m hoping to say some big ‘hellos’, complete with some sloppy Dani kisses, and then off to the Library Voices show at The Exchange. Right back in the swing of things! Can’t wait to see the people in the other coldest city on Earth really soon!
Ripping it up with a board strapped to my feet: Double check!
No group shot this time! Too busy boarding
Yesterday was Mongolia’s 85th independence day, and also marked the opening of Sky Resort, an alpine ski hill only 10 minutes outside of UB! It’s the first of its kind in the country and well, I’m pretty impressed! Now, don’t get me wrong – it’s no Banff, but it’s definitely good enough to spend an afternoon or evening with some friends. There is a four-person chairlift leading up to some pretty prairie-like green runs and another lift that takes you up in the vicinity of two blues and a black. While only one of the blue runs is currently open off the second lift, it’s in pretty good shape. Snow makers and a proper groomer are working overtime to get the other runs in business.
The lifts are horribly, horribly slow, but trust me – there’s entertainment. From sky-high seats, you can watch an entire nation learning how to ski. It. Is. Hilarious. Toques, sunglasses and skis flying everywhere, people crashing into the safety fences, others in an awkward tuck-and-flails…I thought watching people at the pool was bad! This is just ridiculous! Fair enough though – this is the first resort Mongolia has ever seen.
For kids and those who are a little more reluctant to hit the slopes, there’s a magic carpet lift and a toboggan run at the base of the mountain.
The place has an English-speaking staff and you can rent basically everything you need – minus gloves, goggles, and cap. They have brand new winter gear that keeps you rather warm, Head snowboards, boots, and skis, and an ‘ok’ cafateria-style restaurant.
There are chartered shuttles from the parking lot just West of Grand Khaan Irish Pub, and the trip is only 10-15 minutes. Careful though – potential microbus-esque ride! Pack ‘em in like sardines, Bat!
I think we might head out again on Sunday to enjoy the -4 Celsius weather and sunny skies. It looks like we’ve got ourselves a new activity to keep ourselves busy with the 9pm curfew and chilly weather. The website for the resort can be found here, and since the English site isn’t up, here’s a doc with the prices, operation times, etc: Sky resort
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After getting back from the hill, we went to Grand Khaan for a bite and to enjoy some Mongolian national holiday celebrations. Most people had Friday off, so the place was pretty packed. BX and some boy band played and they had contests up on stage. We met the most fascinating woman who paints with her feet underwater (yeah. woh!). She showed us pictures and entertained us for the whole night in her cheetah print outfit and hat. Amazing stuff! You can see in the video that she had us transfixed. Eventually we exchanged business cards, and I believe my reaction to her shiny, gold, 3D print card was “Holy S***! You’re like Willy Wonka or something!”
It may have been the energy spent, or the celebrations, or even the vodka…but yesterday had everyone ecstatic and in good spirits. It was a much appreciated reprieve from what has felt like an eternity over the last few weeks.
As many of you already know, I’ve taken a keen interest in following the story of Amanda Lindhout, a Canadian journalist that was captured by Somalian kidnappers and held for ransom.
Whatever prayers people have been whispering across the nation and world have finally been answered and she has been released after 15 months in captivity!
It’s hard to explain why this story means so much to me, but I think it has a lot to do with how it could be any of us. She is a courageous and dedicated journalist that just went out to do her job and found herself in the wrong place at the wrong time. It’s a lesson that every reporter should take heed to and hold at the back of their minds as they continue traveling to the most lawless and desolate corners of the Earth to tell the stories that should really matter to the public. She’s paid a great price, but luckily, it wasn’t the ultimate one.
All my blessings to Amanda and her family. I know this Christmas will be one happy holiday this year for you and yours.
Well, It’s all done. Healing up rather nicely, and the pain is a rather distant memory at this point.
Many people are probably wondering what it’s all about. Well, I’ve had this idea in my head for quite some time in some capacity. There was a book that a friend had recommended to me many, many years ago and it sort of changed the way I thought of the world (long story, and rather tragic). The book was “The Alchemist” by Paulo Coelho. Very simple read, as anyone who knows Coelho can attest, but the message is clear: Follow your dreams – no matter what. It tells the story of a shepherd named Santiago who leaves his flock and goes on a journey to find his “personal treasure”. On the way, he meets a girl named Fatima. She is gathering water from her town’s well and he is absolutely mesmerized by her. He goes to speak to her, confesses his love, and essentially says that he’s head over heels and wants to stay with her. She says to him “The dunes are changed by the wind, but the desert never changes. That’s the way it will be for our love for each other. If I am a part of your dream, you will come back one day”. To me, this says a lot about goals, friendship, and love. It’s about keeping the people in your life close and knowing they will still be there if you fade away for a while. It’s about being supportive of other people’s fate and supporting your own. It’s about having your eye on the prize, whatever that prize may be, and being determined to get it. That’s where I am right now in my life: I’m searching for my ‘personal treasure’, although I might not know what it is yet.
So the tattoo actually says “Салхи элсэн манханыг өөрчилдөгч, элсэн цөлийг өөрчилж чадамуй” in Mongolian vertical script (how’s your Mongolian??), which translates to “The dunes are changed by the wind, but the desert never changes”. I got the script translated by my best friend and translator Degii and the vertical script was written by another artist named Ava. We got the script checked at the Mongolian National University by some very kind ladies, and it was all uphill from there!
It was done by Tegshee at Elegance Salon across from the Art Market (On the street running North/South, East of State Department Store. Walk down about a block. It’s on the East side of the street near some antique stores – his room is in the very back of the shop). Degii found him through some friends who say “he’s the best”. I’d looked at a few other artists, but this man’s portfolio sold me. He was the winner of Best Portrait, Best Tattoo, and Best Tattoo Artist at the tattoo convention in Mongolia this year (see image). He’d also done some work on the lead singer of the popular band Lemons and it turns out, the only tattoo I’d seen that I liked was on a guy who happened to be his brother! He also used to work at a tattoo shop that I was trying to find called Sax Studios, which was praised by a monk who was tattooed in Mongolia. Looks like I’d found my man. He was really clean - welled his ink, opened all his needles in front of me, and all that jazz. He doesn’t speak English, but conversation was sort of at a minimum anyway. He really concentrates and gives it his all. Degii came along with me and took a ton of pictures and put up with a lot of swearing, so that was really nice! I was pretty exhausted after the whole ordeal, so I headed home for a long nap afterward.
Here are a few pictures from the process:
Outline for the tattoo
“Oh…oh no. What am I doing?” face
Here we go! Mid-back, outline
“Are we done yet?” “Almost…but not really”
Find your happy place
Find your…OW! NO NO NO! OUCH!
Getting there
Why is it that the last little bit was the slowest?All done! Time for a victory club sandwich at UB40!
It’s -26 and “smoky” right now, according to my browser toolbar weather report for Ulaanbaatar, which means I’ll probably spend the majority of the day indoors again! When I first read about the weather over here, I just looked at the highs, lows, and averages and assumed that it would be incredibly similar to the weather I’m used to back in Saskatchewan. Turns out, it is, except the air smells like a charcoal barbeque pit and the cold sunk in a few weeks too early! This winter is also supposed to be colder and snowier than average, according to news.mn.
Life has been rather uneventful because of a curfew that was imposed two weeks ago, and reimposed yesterday. Because of the rapid spread of H1N1, all bars are closing at 9pm, school is out, and all public events are cancelled. This has put a serious cramp in my arts reporting for Mr. Tugs. For the last few weeks, the junior site has been rather weak on content. As of yesterday, the country’s infected population reached 1,015 and there have been 16 deaths. Although we were all ready and raring to hit the mean streets of UB yesterday for the first night on the town in quite some time, the curfew was reimposed and we were stranded yet again. Not only that, but an attempted trip to Narantuul (The Black Market) last week for Christmas presents to bring back home was also a complete failure. Turns out that’s closed too.
The nice thing is, the curfew has also encouraged people to be a lot more creative with activities! I held a Halloween Party at my apartment on the 31st and a (ridiculously organized) group of friends at an apartment Tower downtown held an “Around the World” party last Saturday. We all had to dress up as different countries, or people from different countries, for starters. Then we started at one apartment (Iceland, I believe) where we were issued our passports for the night. We’d spend about an hour at each place before heading off to the next. We found out our destinations by receiving a sticker from the host of each party! They also organized it so there was at least two parties going on at all times. Kenya (my home country at the time) featured the most amazing traditional food. Mexico…well, the people hosting Mexico decided we were all deported to America to the traditional “College House Party” where we had to do competitions to get our green cards: Quarters, power hour, US trivia, or “make-out-with-someone-who’s-not-your-significant-other-on-the-balcony”. Sounds like a college party to me (Katie? Any comments on this one?). For the record, I did power hour. Ingenius AND SO much fun.
I think it’s time to come clean on something I’ve been thinking about for a while. It’s been at the back of my mind for about a month, but I haven’t been able to go on out and say it, so here’s what I usually do instead of posting on this blog to avoid the obvious: I obsess about insidethecbc.com. I read my home newspaper. I peruse all the party photos and nights out with the girls I’m missing. I have conversations back home at ungodly hours when my eyes are droopy and I know I should be asleep. It’s been building up. It’s pretty obvious what’s going on and it’s almost clinical. I’m bloody homesick, and I’m okay with that…or so I’ve decided.
I originally planned to stay longer…indefinitely, even. It was never about money or comfort. I have enough opportunities to keep me here and healthy for quite a while. Even a possible permanent position. So there I was: Free to do whatever I decided to do. I figured I’d pop home for Christmas – to tie up loose ends – and then head back to the cold and smog of the UB winter.
Then it got chilly and I remembered when I was a little kid plodding through three feet of snow on a Saturday morning to deliver this shitty little newspaper I used to make with my sister, dad and neighbours. I’d also remember the rush I got in a scrum when I knew I had THE question. Or bursting to the Batcave at CBC Newsworld (or is it News Network?) to chase that damned Peter McKay down at Pearson Airport for a quote. Or when the President of the university was trying to avoid the inevitable questions and I cornered him. Frick, I love that stuff. I loved how the most amazing things would happen at any time and you’d be challenged everyday. If I stay, I’ll be comfortable, but I don’t care about that. I don’t like being too comfortable.
On the other hand, I miss home. So here’s the deal: I’m going home for a while to Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada where I can continue shamelessly making fun of our football team, dance like an epileptic at local shows, and enjoy some time with the fam and good friends. Then, it’s off again. Not sure where, but I plan on being gone before the end of next summer.
So…yeah! That’s that! Adjusted a few things and bam! I’m home December 18 after two days in Beijing. Just like that.
In other news, I’m getting a tattoo. My mom has referenced the following picture as a reminder of how “stupid I am”:
I agree…platform sandals are disgusting.
Anyway, I’m going to try and reenact the “Mom! Look! I got a bellybutton ring to match my tattoo!” fiasco of teenhood for giggles. She can’t choke me in Ulaanbaatar and hopefully me coming home mid-winter will render her hands too arthritic to wring my neck.
I’ll talk more about the tattoo later.
In other news, I had a Halloween Party. Went as Alex from A Clockwork Orange, and it went off without a hitch!
It was done by Tegshee at Elegance Salon across from the Art Market (On the street running North/South, East of State Department Store. Walk down about a block. It’s on the East side of the street near some antique stores – his room is in the very back of the shop). Degii found him through some friends who say “he’s the best”. I’d looked at a few other artists, but this man’s portfolio sold me. He was the winner of 
